10W (cool-white) LED Chip
$13/10pcs. Specs: Forward current (If): 900 mA, forward voltage (Vf) (9-12V) which means the LED is turned on when applying a voltage somewhere in 9-12 V and the current runs through the chip should not exceed 900 mA.
LED driver (300-3000mA)
$10/board. This one could step down the voltage which means if the input DC is larger than Vf of a LED chip or (x Vf when x chips are wired in series). I wired there chips in series and applied a DC 36 V for one bank. The light intensity is controlled by Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) on the enable pin (EN) through an Arduino pin with the resistors to limit the current leak out the driver to the Arduino. The jumpers on the LED driver is used to select a maxium current. For this board, the full output by PWM when the enabling pin is grounded and is zero with 5V reference. I would advise against wiring chips in parallel, except if you want to test the Ohm's law.
Heatsink (or a block of metal)
This one comes with bolts and thermal gel. Basically, heatsink is a block of aluminum ($10/block). I put 3 x 10 W chip on one block. With a temperature room about 22-25 ℃, the temperature from the block is about 50-55 ℃.
($44/board) like this one, you can find a generic board on Amazon or other electronic outlets with about 1/3 of the price. I use Mega version, but Uno or Nano version should work (change pins for the SD card module).
(give output in lux). $6.95. A photoresistor would work as a raw indicator
I used this one: MeanWell 36V, 350W , $50.90. This one has a built-in fan controller. It is really quite when I drew out about 4A for my system. The DC source is depended on your LED panel. It can be a wall adapter (12V, 2A) if you want to run one 3x3W (LED) with one LED driver.